Entertaining: Meat n Three's
Staking Out Local Fare
By Michael Nolan
Meat-and-three: That uniquely southern expression describing an unassuming eating establishment where macaroni and cheese is considered a vegetable, bits of bacon float amid the green beans, and you have a choice of cornbread or rolls. Six local law enforcement officers tipped us off to some of their favorite lunch spots for home-style cooking.
“The police know where the good food is – and where the cheap food is,” asserts Det. Grant Benedict of the Williamson County police department. Armed with their input, a countywide investigation began. – M.N.
For sheer longevity, no one surpasses Dotson’s in Franklin, now celebrating 61 years of “pure country cookin’.” Its reputation is as tall as the meringue on their signature pies. Owner Art McCloud greets friends and strangers alike with a smiling, “Hi, neighbor!”
Although the fried chicken, meatloaf and desserts are his superstars, don’t miss other worthy options like the delicate dumplings in a rich chicken broth, the turkey and dressing studded with tiny diced pimento and eggs, or Mr. Art’s turnip greens harvested down the road in Peytonsville.
“We try to stick to basic home cooking,” observes owner Barbara Thompson of Barbara’s Home cooking, a friendly eatery based in a converted Grassland cottage. Baked squash, sweet potato casserole and creamed corn are lightly seasoned so the glorious natural flavors of the vegetables shine through. Mashed potatoes, regaled by Southern Living magazine, maintain a few lumps to let you know they’re the real deal.
Her famous fried chicken comes hot from a cast iron skillet with a delicious crunch, and the roast beef has a robust peppery taste. But the crown jewels are the non-stop yeast rolls delivered hot to your table ready to be laden with the real butter.
Also in Grassland is new arrival Daily Dish where chef/owner Sean Begin offers “comfort food but with a twist.” An alumnus of Capitol Grille, Big Guns Catering and the Copper Kettle, his daily offerings include “something fried, something, roasted and something a little more healthy.”
His popular country fried steak is a quality cut of beef that’s pounded, dredged in seasoned flour and pan-fried. The grilled barbecue beef tips are like bite-sized steaks cooked to savory perfection. Stick-to-your-ribs favorites such as green bean casserole, cheese grits and white beans are offset by lighter fare including pasta salad and fruit salad.
You can break free from chain restaurants in Cool Springs by breezing into Bishop’s across the street from Lowe’s. Unexpected options include smothered pork chops, braised beef tips, carrot soufflé, okra and tomatoes, and apple dumplings.
Co-owners Nick Bishop and Jason Crockarell are thrilled that, in addition to a healthy lunch crowd, families are flocking in.
“Kids are eating vegetables and actually asking to come back,” reports Jason. “Not only are we better than fast food, we’re faster than fast food,” promises Nick who notes that they even offer car-side service for those who call ahead.
“Today we probably did 70 pounds of barbecue (pork),” estimates Randy Whitefield, cook at the venerable One Stop Café.
A fixture since 1960 (or ’61, depending on which sign you believe), barbecue is the headline news but other tempting contenders include fried chicken and country fried steak laden with white gravy. There may be enough ham in your turnip greens to count as a second meat. Try the pulled pork with some well-seasoned green beans, creamy mac-and-cheese, cinnamon apples, and good-as-it-gets sweet tea and you’ve got quite a feast for $8.63, including tax.
“We’d get lynched if we didn’t have fried chicken,” confesses Dean Simpson of Franklin’s Cool Café. It’s a staple Monday through Thursday. Slabs of flavorful meatloaf and creamy mashed potatoes are popular as well.
“We do a lot more fish than your typical meat-and-three,” he observes, noting that choices range from old-fashioned salmon croquets to the more contemporary baked tilapia. The café’s stellar line-up of fresh salads includes corn and tomato salad, crunchy and colorful coleslaw, and broccoli salad with tangy homemade dressing.
If you can’t contain yourself to one meat and three vegetables, you might want to stake out Monell’s. Located in the beautifully renovated Old Jail, inmates never ate like this. Platters of fried chicken, corn pudding and squash casserole are served family style. Unless you bring a tableful of diners, expect to rub elbows with and pass the peas to strangers.
It’s the most expensive restaurant investigated ($12.95) but that price includes all you want of three lunch entrees, an assortment of hot vegetables and salads, drink and the dessert of the day. The bread pudding and strawberry shortcake are fine but try capping your meal with a biscuit drizzled with their peach preserves.
The City Café has been a fixture in Brentwood for two decades. In homage to their friend and former Nashville meat-and-three icon Hap Townes, owners Jerry and Beata Cunningham, serve his signature stewed raisins and highly acclaimed banana pudding, along with a stellar line-up of cobblers and pies.
ypically meat-and-threes raise the prices for special items, such as catfish, but manager Janet Booth says, “Whatever meat and vegetables you pick, it’s the same price ($7.23).” Entrees rotate each day with entrees including roasted pork loin, chicken livers and pork chops.
In Brentwood, Vittles on Merchants Walk also vies for your attention. Get there early if you want a slice of Jan Craighhead’s coveted coconut cake. Even if it’s not available, your excellent fallback options include a very vanilla-y banana pudding and a wide selection of pies.
Of course, you might need to get your dessert to go because of the bountiful options and generous portions. “We have around 15 meats and 20 vegetables every day,” explains Jan who owns the restaurant with her husband, John. Along with the usual suspects, you’ll find stuffed peppers, ambrosia, corn fritters and sweet potato fries.
As you travel the county, keep these police-pleasing eateries on your radar.
“I don’t think there’s anywhere I’ve had a bad meal,” testifies Williamson County’s Corporal Chuck Norman, a 21-year veteran of the force.
In our next issue, we continue our hunt for flavorful plate lunches with visits to markets and a doughnut shop with multiple personalities.
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